09 January 2013

Oliver Spencer FW13


Even though I haven't been able to attend many shows during the latest London Collections: Men this week there are certain ones I would never dare to miss. Oliver Spencer is one of them.
The designer addressed the three key elements to dressing a man – fit, colour, texture – in different ways that harmoniously came together in the form of a current, masculine collection with a flavour of the past.
The fit of his tailoring was very much modern. Slim trousers and fitted jackets, always comfortable and enhancing the right parts of the male body: broad shoulders, long legs.
The colour palette was rich but subtle full of autumnal hues but didn't lack injections of mustard, French blue and burgundy, which are always a staple in a winter wardrobe.
My favourite element was the texture, which reminded me of the post WW II tailoring and referenced Spencer's inspiration – the work of art theorist Joseph Beuys, particularly of his use of felt. It was the great combination of felt, tweed and wools that, for me, made the collection so full of character.
The outer and footwear deserve a special mention. The first, because it's such a strong element in all the designer's collections – I am the proud owner of one – and the second, because Oliver Spencer shoes get better and better every season and compete at the level of names like Grenson or Church's.

Click on read more below to see my video of the finale after the jump.

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